To remove the door key lock, remove the clip indicated by the red arrow to the right and remove the rod from the hole. Fifth – Remove the window. In the bottom of the door, there’s a big rubber stopper that stops the window just about where the top of the window is level with the door opening. The majority of disassembly involves this side but first we have to get past the arm rest, door handle, and window crank. Here’s the various latch, handle, and lock mechanisms as one assembly. Timing assembly. Looks like a lot of play to me. Here’s how the crank assembly looks. Not picking up much oil these days by the looks of it. Received the package in several days. The package I chose for my C4S was 7mm Front and 15mm Rear spacers. The oil dipstick is bolted to the stud on the left (towards the front of the truck).
Next use pliers to pull the retainer clip indicated by the arrow on the left straight towards you and the lock mechanism will drop out of the door with the rod attached to it. Pull out the external door lock (it should be loose now). I’m going to go through the disassembly of a door step by step. Now, we’re going to put the barrel back on. Re Install your barrel nut! The short rod that runs from the lower left side of the latch to the lower right side of the door goes to the door key lock and the rod from the lower right side of the latch goes to the outside door handle. Woo Hoo, the only thing left to do is just enjoy the holiday. In this pic I’m showing one of the 3 Allen head bolts surrounding the water pump (silver thing next to my hand). I had workded so many cars but this was some thing els.
Make sure it’s oriented the right way! The rod at the top that runs to the right goes to the door lock knob. From the inside of the door, you can see the door latch in the middle with a rod running toward the top of the picture to the inside door handle. To remove the inside door latch, the rod clip can be accessed by rotating the spindle a few degrees. Then remove the two nuts on either side that hold it to the top of the valve cover. The last of these problems may also be caused by corrosion of the bullet connectors where the two wires used to turn off the ignition attach at the ignition module. It may be tight, but it should come off without tools. Put a fresh patch on it each time, it will come out dirty. More pics of this to come.
More on this in a bit. We’ll get into that in a little bit. By removing the inner mount, you get full access to get a wrench on the water pump. That eliminates the need for the special waper pump adjustment wrench. You need to pull the wire retainer clip from the coolant hose end to remove it from the reservoir. DO NOT REMOVE THE BELT YET. So because of this, you want to MAKE A MARK ON THE OLD BELT AND CAM/CRANK GEARS. The same for the crank pulley, ( again,see earlier pic up top) Be sure to mark all 3! In this pic I also have the lower cover off. This pic shows the upper cam sprocket alignment. THE CAM GEARS MOVE ONCE YOU SLIP THE BELT OFF. I marked each cam gear at its exact top tooth (use the tooth not the valley) the mark was made on the belt and the sprockets.