I also used a little bit of caulk to patch the screw holes on the header board. This is kind of a minor step, but we also constructed the bed header (that goes above the bed) at this point using all of the H pieces. I have to say now that I am kind of loving the idea of making my own moulding! I also added caulk to kind of seal the gap between the two E pieces on the front of the bed. Since I was planning to paint the book case but stain that shelf, I did not glue it when I added my 1 1/4″ pocket screws. This saved me from having to fill them later when it was time to paint. It all worked out and we finished it on time for the One Room Challenge Final Reveal. For those who don’t know what it is- “A murphy bed is also known as a wall bed, fold-down bed, or pull-down bed.” It is kinda connected to the wall from one end and comes down from another end. This is another somewhat tedious (but not really difficult) part – you’re attaching the other half of your hardware that will allow the bed to pivot up and down.
I also wanted to make sure that there would still be enough space to sit at the desk if the Murphy bed was down. There was an error submitting your subscription. We only have 8′ ceilings so there wouldn’t be enough clearance for me to attach it after the fact. There is a pretty good chance your bed will come out of the wall if not attached to studs – it’s really heavy. We took our baseboard completely off of the wall before starting this step. Step 6: Paint, caulk, and tape. They will walk you through every step of the desk modification build. Last week I shared how I teamed up with Rockler Woodworking and Hardware as well as PureBond plywood to build a gorgeous Modern Farmhouse Murphy Bed for my office. Next, attach your cabinet verticals to the sides of the bed using the hardware instructions. Next, I attached the bookcase top and header rails. Follow the instructions included with the hardware to put the header on top, securing to the studs in the wall. Step 3: Cut rounded corners and put hardware in your side rails. Though Murphy beds can usually be a pain to build, the plan is extremely detailed and you can find a diagram with measurements for pretty much every step.
You won’t find this in your instructions, but this is a good point to add any paint and caulk before your final assembly step. Updated: you can now find the second post here! I’ve included affiliate links to products I used in this post for your convenience. There’s an option in your instructions to cut out a notch for baseboards in your instructions, but since our finished piece would be taking up the majority of the wall, we chose to do it this way and reattach after everything was installed (I’ll show more of that in the next post). Today, I’m continuing on from that post and sharing the free plans and tutorial for the desk modifications. Murphy bed plans usually come with a hardware kit that is necessary for assembling the bed the right way. Now, you’ll simply follow the instructions to make your 1″ pivot plate hole and attach the lower ball stud plates at the indicated placements on pieces B. It’s super important that these measurements are exact, or your hardware kit will not line up.
Use your jigsaw to cut the edge and a 5/8″ forstner bit to drill almost all the way through the leg pivot hole. You can also go on and mark your leg pivot placement at this point. Use a pencil to mark where your struts are on these pieces. Lay sides B on either side of your strut assembly from Step 2. Part C goes at the foot and Part D goes at the head of the struts. Use wood glue under where your struts will lie to reinforce the attachment. I attached the fixed bottom with 1 1/4″ pocket screws and wood glue. Attach the 1/4″ plywood as directed under where the mattress will go, putting your mattress straps in on top. Please note that these are the nominal wood dimensions you will see on the price tags when buying the wood. Screw the corners of the frame together with wood screws. Make sure the front of the E boards is flush with the foot of your bed frame (the other sides will have a slight overhang). Use 1×12 boards for this frame. Now, lay your E boards out below the strut pieces.
Attach both vertical pieces and then the top horizontal piece. I did accidentally glue it to the shorter cabinet vertical which made for fun times when trying to take it off to stain it. Take a pick of these 3 Murphy bed plans! The plans for the bed will come in your kit. Come visit our showroom and see why dreams are sweeter when you sleep on a Create-A-Bed murphy bed. Here we are for Part 2 of how to build a queen size white murphy bed! My video will cover the queen size vertical Murphy bed. Note the baseboard trim is only attached at each vertical board with 3 finish nails. 13. Add finishing details with trim molding and paint the bookshelves and Murphy bed box. I drilled pocket holes into the top of my cabinet sides with my Kreg R3, attached the plywood backing, and finished it off with paint.